Whenever I see this dish scrawled on the chalkboard of a bistro, I get excited. Visitors to Provence, or Spain, or anywhere with a strong tradition of food from the sea probably have had something like this. It is one of the most-healthy dishes one can eat: a mound of steamed veggies; two hard-boiled eggs; a nice piece of poached cod; and of course, a sizeable helping of garlicky mayonnaise – the more garlic the better as far as I am concerned. Once it arrives, the real fun begins, which is watching the people around us.
Today, Jann and I both ordered the Aioli (a mistake because each arrived on a platter the size of a sports car tire and could have fed a family – the image above is from another time). I felt guilty until the older woman next to us ordered a single-serving pizza. It arrived draped over an exceedingly large plate, a good six inches resting unsupported on each side. I was curious to see how she would manage to consume it. It was in the shape of a half-moon, and after she had eaten about twenty forks-full, a normal lunch for most, she neatly folded the remaining overhangs on top of the plate and announced to the waiter she was done. Four normal-sized adults could have fed on the scraps for a week – it was huge. There was a lesson to be learned. No matter how much is on the plate, one gets to choose when to stop eating and take the rest home. Guilt-based eating is a rarity in France, as are doggie bags. Only once has a waiter here questioned what I left behind, and it was a humorous comment on the lonely, uneaten top bun from a burger still on my plate.
When the woman next to us finally paid her bill and stood to leave the restaurant, she smiled at us and said, “au revoir, passez une bonne journée – have a nice day.” If anything is expected of diners who sit closely side-by-side, rarely saying anything during the meal, it is the courtesy of a smile and a well-wish at the end. Remember this and you will be almost French.-
